Wednesday 8 April 2020

Kneidlach - a dumpling by any other name would not taste as good

Tonight is the start of Passover. There is a dreadful irony that the celebration of freedom from slavery, when families come together will be celebrated apart and in voluntary lockdown.  Thanks to various online “meeting” applications many of us will be able to celebrate by being together – virtually.  

We are not religiously observant but still come together to celebrate the holidays and be together as a family. And of course we always eat the traditional food: as we are of Ashkenazi descent it is very much the food of Eastern Europe and what is now part of Ukraine and Russia.  

Growing up, we always had the first night of Passover at our house.  There were never fewer than 24 and sometimes closer to 40 guests.  My father used to ensure that any Jewish member of his hospital team or medical student who had nowhere to go, came to us. 

The Passover service – the Seder – was interminable. There was much debating, singing and praying and glasses of wine. The youngest child had to perform by asking the four questions – which start “Why is this night different from all other nights…”  much relief when the baton passed to my sister and then other cousins.

One year, my cousin Barbara and I, seated at the end of the “children’s” table were bored and we started feeding each other – a piece of matzah and a sip of wine for you and a piece of matzah and a sip of wine for me - no one noticed.  I have no idea what happened to her that night but apparently I was put to bed before dinner ended and missed out on synagogue the following morning with a bad headache.  

Although I loved being with the whole family – I dreaded the concert that followed dinner. My father came from a very musical family (my sister inherited the talent, not me).  After a few rousing verses of various Passover songs played by my Aunt Essie (also my piano teacher) all the cousins would have to perform. I would have to perform a piano solo, then a duet with my sister. Barbara would also play and do a ballet dance.  Essie’s two sons, John and Michael –would play the piano and violin respectively to much acclaim and then my sister and I would have to recite – we used to have speech and drama lessons.  The audience was critical and knowledgeable – all the cousins learned to play at least one instrument – and I hated every moment!

But the tension about the meal was not mine then.  I have written earlier about the first time I made chopped liver – a staple at our festive table. I have made it often enough not to stress but then there are the matzoh balls/kneidlach aka dumplings.  The recipe is deceptively simple but one wrong move and they become like lead balloons or disintegrate into the soup.  There was always a hush as the first plate was served and a sigh when the verdict was pronounced “light as a feather”.

This recipe is from my mother-in-law.  She also used to make ones which had meat in the middle but that is a step too far for me.  And of course they are served in chicken soup.

Kneidlach

(Bella’s recipe)

2 rounded Tab chicken fat (you can use goose fat or dripping)
300g matzoh meal
2 eggs

Mix the chicken fat in 480 ml boiling water.  Beat the eggs very well and add. Add the matzoh meal and mix well.  Let stand in the fridge for about an hour.  Form into balls and place on a wet plate. I suggest just larger than a golf ball.  Boil in chicken soup for about 20 minutes. They freeze, uncooked, extremely well.



Chag Pesach Sameach





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