If Neil
McGregor, Director of the British Museum, ever leaves these shores I will
cry and cry. We visited this weekend and
it is buzzing, humming and still full of wonder. (I won’t delve into the ethics or not of the
Elgin Marbles going back to Athens – would the six million people who see them here
each year travel there to see them.
Enough of that!)
Our main purpose was to see Germany
- Memories of a Nation, a six hundred year history in objects. McGregor has
form: several years ago he
worked with the BBC on a project telling A History of the World in 100
objects. There were a hundred 15-minute episodes, broadcast on Radio 4 based
on objects from the British Museum’s collection. It was entrancing, fascinating
and if you can get the podcast, worth listening to or buying the book.
The current
German exhibition has been subjected to the same treatment and is his narrative
is currently being broadcast on BBC Radio 4 – I am halfway through and it is
fascinating. I learned a bit of German history at school – in South Africa the
unification of Germany seemed a long way away and not terribly relevant.
I knew that
Martin Luther had translated the bible into German – and there is a copy hand
annotated by him – but hadn’t realized that he all but created the universal written
German language – pulling together numerous regional dialects and making
arbitrary decisions about which words to use, wanting the text to be as
relevant as possible to ordinary people. This sits a few paces away from a
Gutenberg bible – the first mass produced printed book.
Each object
tells a story – about the Hanseatic League to a copy of The Communist Manifesto
by Marx and Engels; a copy of Das Kapital; a porcelain rhinocerous modeled
on Dürer s etching which is there as well; an Iron Cross and a stunning Bauhaus cradle.
Wonderful art
from Dürer to the Bauhaus, from Meissen to Kathe Kollwitz and not so wonderful
examples of the dark days of the rise of Nazism and the Holocaust, including
the gate from Buchenwald concentration camp. That simple
gate with the words Jedem das Seine innocuously translated as “to each his own” but in this case vilely as
“everyone gets what he deserves” and written on the gate so it could only be
read from the inside.
The exhibition starts with news footage of the fall of the Berlin Wall
and outside there is – what else – a Volkswagen Beetle! We collect magnets from art exhibitions to
act as a daily visual reminder – this time it was the Dürer rhinocerous......
Finally – we are members of the British Museum so we didn’t pay to see
this exhibition – you will have to pay a very small sum of between £8 - £10 –
the rest of the museum is free. The
subject of my next blog!